Hardwood flooring in Vancouver is a flourishing industry. Wooden floors add aesthetic beauty to our living spaces and workplaces. It is being extensively used by people with great taste of ethnic flavor and who enjoy adding charm to their property. In different textures and forms, they are being used for different purposes and style.
Among the most in-demand forms of wooden flooring in Vancouver are the Solid Hardwood floors and the Engineered Hardwood Floors. Both the forms are popular in use and have their own sets of advantages and disadvantages over one another.
On one hand, Solid wooden floors are durable and add strength to your flooring. They are cost-effective flooring solution and give you the aesthetic feel of solid wood used for flooring. It is the traditional form of floors made out of wood. It uses the actual solid wood and is used throughout the North America region for its durability. The common forms include maple, oak and birch which are available in different colors and shades. The only and the biggest drawback with this form of wooden flooring is that it gets easily damaged or wears out with time due to moisture and temperature modulations.
On the other hand, there is the advanced form of Engineered Wooden flooring. The engineered wood floor uses the solid wood as the base along with multi-layers of plywood. Its installation is more sophisticated than in any form of flooring. It offers durability and resistance to external damaging factors. In contrast to the solid wooden floors, it offers resistance to external factors like moisture, light and other wear and tear. It is more structurally sound in comparison to solid hardwood and does not lose its luster quickly.
The only reason behind the popularity of engineered floors is due to its resistivity to wear and tear. But solid wooden floor continues to be a favorite too since it is far more economical and durable.
Oak Flooring-A Comparison of Solid Wood and Engineered Flooring
One of the first choices you will have to consider in buying an oak floor is whether you are going to choose a solid hardwood product or a laminate product. Laminate is also known as engineered flooring and uses real wood on top of another material, usually plywood. Hardwood or solid is, as the name implies, made of only one type of material. Laminate can also refer to other products made of plastic, but that will not be addressed in this article.
Engineered floors
Generally, engineered products do not offer quite the variety that you can find in solid products. Engineered floors can be installed in a variety of ways including free floating, glued down and stapled or nailed down.
Engineered floors tend to remain more stable and flat in conditions where heavy moisture is present. Changes in climatic conditions cause all floors to expand and contract, but engineered floors are more resistant to the influences of moist air. This kind of floor is the floor of choice for any basement or sub-grade installation and may also be a better choice for tropical locations that are subject to extreme humidity or in areas where there are extreme fluctuations in temperature.
Laminate floors are somewhat thinner than solid wood planks and may be a better choice for installations over an existing floor. Door clearances and transitions from one room to another with and without a wood floor are kept to a minimum.
Solid Hardwoods
While it may seem that engineered floors enjoy many advantages over solid oak floors, there are arguments for the hardwood plank camp as well.
Solid wood floors have a certain feel to them that other floors cannot match. There is something almost indefinable, but still very much present, in the sound and the feeling of walking on a hardwood floor that is missing in the alternative.
There is a broader selection in styles and in addition to oak, solid flooring offers a wider range of species, cuts and finishes.
Solid wood floors also have a high level of trustworthiness that adds value to a home. While laminates are excellent floors, the psychological appeal of a solid hardwood floor is hard to deny. Oak floors are associated with tradition, elegance and endurance-”The Mighty Oak” and other floors have similar connotations-the richness of walnut or the warm and rare cherry.
Finally, there is no doubt that the solid hardwood floor is an enduring addition to any home. One only has to visit homes hundreds of years old to witness firsthand the sturdy and ever-lasting quality of a solid plank floor.
There are so many happy decisions to make when choosing your oak floor! Resources and advice are ready for you in a complete wood flooring guide. Come visit us today!
Solid wood is exactly as it sounds, one piece of wood from top to bottom.
What is the difference between Laminate and Real Wood Floors?
Real Wood floors will age and mature with your property, this means that they will mark and dent more easily than a laminate would but this is part of the character of real wood floors and should not be viewed as a fault of the product. The shade of the wood surface will change with exposure to sunlight. Dependant on the species, it will either lighten or darken with age. The shade variation will only go on to a certain level and then cease. Any unexposed surface areas will eventually catch up with the colour differences once exposed.
Depending on the type of Real Wood floor (solid v’s engineered) it can sanded and re lacquered a number of times to prolong the life of the floor.
What is the difference between Solid Wood Flooring and Engineered Wood Flooring?
Each type of flooring has its specific use and choosing one over the other is dictated by your lifestyle and needs. Solid wood should be in a moisture-controlled environment. Solid wood (strip or plank effect) should be nailed down only and requires a wood sub floor. Solid wood can be glued to a variety of sub floor materials.
Engineered wood flooring consists of a multi-plied, cross-stacked backing with a real wood veneer (top layer of a selected species). Engineered wood flooring can be used on grade, above and below grade.
Engineered wood flooring is more dimensionally stable so it can be installed in areas where solid wood is not compatible due to moisture. Engineered wood (strip or plank effect) can be glued down over various sub floor. Some engineered woods (strip and plank ) can be nailed down which require a wood sub floor. Engineered woods can also be layed as a floating floor where the tongue and groove are glued together, but the floor is not anchored to the sub floor.
What is a “Floating Floor”?
Floating flooring is a flooring system laid down over a layer of underlay. So while the individual planks are glued together, the individual planks are not nailed or glued into the permanent floor. Instead, the planks form a system that “floats” over the layer of underlay. The underlay can be laid down over existing floors.
What is the required distance between the walls and the flooring boards?
When gluing a Real Wood to the subfloor an expansion gap of 15mm towards the walls is sufficient. With floating-floor installations for every metre of installation width the flooring requires a distance to the wall of at least 5mm, lengthwise an expansion gap of 15mm is sufficient.
Can I install the flooring using one pack after the other?
No, for a natural, harmonious looking installation is recommended to work with approximately 5 open packs of flooring and sort/choose the boards individually by colour.
How much wastage do I allow for?
Despite our strict sorting criteria and thorough quality control there may be certain material-specific peculiarities that customers come across during the on-site selection and installation process which may need to be cut out. Generally, we recommend adding 5% to the room’s sqm-total for cutting scrap.
Which kind of Real Wood flooring is right for me?
The range of choices is huge. According to personal taste and character of the room you can choose between different wood types, board sizes, surface finishes (lacquer-finish or oil-impregnation), surface structures (Antique, Distressed, Brushed), impressions (Block or Wideplank) and styles.
Does sunlight have any effects on the flooring?
Yes, any kind of wood will change its colour over time. During this process light-coloured wood types are not necessarily going to get lighter, dark wood types however will get darker. Every wood type has a characteristic aging process of its own and will react in its individual way.
What is the maximum load a Real Wood flooring can bear on a single point?
With very large loads (e.g. pianos, aquariums, storage heaters and the like) we always recommend gluing down as the installation method of choice.
Can Engineered Real Wood flooring that has been installed as a floating floor be sanded and resurfaced?
Yes, but be aware that every sanding process will take off about 1mm of the flooring’s wear-layer. Try not to use very heavy sanding machinery as the big weight of these machines may lead to the creation of “sanding waves”
How do I care for my oil-impregnated Real Wood floors?
Use Wood-Floor Soap for regular maintenance cleaning. Use a vacuum cleaner for lacquer-finished floors and damp-wipe only if needed.
Should your Floating Real Wood Flooring be installed under kitchen appliances?
In the kitchen, you should install the flooring under kitchen appliances, but be very careful when you slide the appliances over the floor. We recommend covering the flooring with something such as a spare rug to protect the flooring when you’re moving the appliances.
Are there methods that make it possible for ALL stains to be removed from Real Wood Floors or is it sometimes impossible for some stains to be removed?
Most stains don’t penetrate more than the sanding will remove. However, if you have a severe water stain, you may not be able to remove it.
How much of an irregularity (drop or rise) can there be in an existing sub floor before installing your Real Wood Flooring?
You can have a drop or rise up to 4mm over 2 linear metres.
Do Real Wood Floors increase home value?
Absolutely. Real Woods floors are recognised as one of the highest quality floors available and would increase the value of your home.
I am installing a Radiant Heat Floor System involving poly water tubing set in gypsum concrete that would be my sub-floor. Can your products be used with this type of floor heating system?
This installation is okay as long as the tubes don’t touch the wood. You also would have to use a laminated underlay vapour barrier between the concrete and the floor.
Can your Real Wood Flooring be installed over Linoleum and be used on stairs?
Real Wood flooring can be installed on the stairs, however it can be slippery.
You can install our floating Real Wood flooring over linoleum if the linoleum remains sound and tightly glued to the original sub floor.
Is there a type of Real Wood Flooring (e.g. Maple v’s Oak) that is more durable or longer lasting than another?
There isn’t much difference between Real Wood flooring wood types. The only negative on oak is it’s a rather porous wood, but it is a very hard durable wood, as are maple and beech. White oak is slightly harder than red oak. Your choice will really come down to aesthetics.
My concrete floor has a few low spots in it and I was wondering what to use to solve this problem?
Most building materials suppliers have a concrete levelling product. We suggest levelling any areas that are more than 3/16″ in variation. Make sure you use the underlay with a DPM before installing over concrete.
Do you have to install your Real Wood Flooring under existing cabinets?
Ideally, the Real Wood flooring would go under the cabinets. You can, however, cut around the cabinets if removing the cabinets would cause undue complications. Keep in mind, though, that if you were ever to change the cabinets, you could have a problem if the new cabinets weren’t the same size as the old cabinets.
Is it possible to install a Real Wood as a floating floor over concrete?
Real Wood floor is designed exactly for this kind of application. It requires an underlay with a DPM over the concrete floor. The floating floor system can go directly over that.
If there were a crack in the concrete, would it cause problems with a Floating Floor installation?
We recommend that any cracks in concrete be filled with concrete filler and sealed prior to installation. If it’s just a hairline crack you can simply cover the crack with duct tape. Keep in mind that underlay with a DPM must be installed prior to laying down the floor.
Important note prior to installation: Relative Humidity should be maintained a 40-55% prior to installation and throughout the life span of the floor.
15mm expansion gap must be maintained around the perimeter of the floor.
Real Wood Flooring FAQs brought to you by the flooring experts at Wood Flooring 2U
If you would like any further information on solid wood flooring, engineered wood flooring, laminate wood flooring or advice on how to install a wooden floor, please don’t hesitate to get in touch, our knowledgeable team would be more than happy to help.
The difference between solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring
On first inspection there isn’t any great aesthetic difference between solid wood and engineered wood flooring. However before you rush out and opt for the cheapest wood floor there are a few pros and cons to weigh up for both engineered and solid wood floors.
Construction
Solid wood flooring is milled from the tree to give a solid wood plank which has an uninterrupted wood grain and is solely constructed of one solid section of wood. They are mostly constructed with a tongue and groove format.
Engineered wood floors consist of a top layer of natural hardwood which is stuck to a cross layered section of natural soft or hard wood known as ply wood. The cross layering of the ply enables the plank to be more stable due to the glue used so that when the wood expands width ways the different angles reduce the amount of expansion.
Durability
Solid wood flooring is more durable than engineered as it gains its strength from being one solid piece of wood and can be re-sanded and refinished with different waxes, stains or oils more times then engineered. Though the life of any floor does depend on how well it is looked after with recommended care products.
Engineered wood flooring is still very durable and can only be re-sanded five times as the top hardwood layer cannot withstand more.
Really good maintenance is key to durability as when the right cleaning products are used a wood floor can last a very long time.
Stability
Solid wood floor isn’t considered as stable as engineered due to its seasonal movements, meaning that they are susceptible to expansion and contraction with humidity changes in the home. A small perimeter gap accommodates this movement. Solid wood floor is not generally recommended if underfloor heating is already installed as the heat can cup and warp the boards. It is also not advisable to lay solid wood flooring on concrete, unless a full moisture test has been carried out and it is sealed, as the levels of moisture can also affect the boards.
Engineered wood flooring is more stable and more multi functional then solid wood as it is suitable for laying on underfloor heating, concrete and is compatible with most types of underlay making it a good option for those living in second floor and basement flats.
Installation
Solid wood floor can be stuck down or secret nailed and it is not recommended that they are floated over underlay as the joints are glued down and wouldn’t allow the boards to move with seasonal humidity and moisture.
Engineered wood flooring can be stuck down, nailed and floated. It is versatile but does still require a perimeter gap just to be on the safe side with slight board movements.
Jordan Stavrinou is the Managing Director of Jordan Andrews Ltd; London’s leading hardwood flooring company. With 20 years in the hardwood and construction industry and a team of industry professionals, Jordan is considered an expert in his field. Visit www.jordanandrews.com for all your hard wood flooring needs.
The Solid Oak Wood Flooring – Attractive, Striking and Durable
Hardwood flooring is anything that is not new to the people as this type of flooring has been in use for centuries. Wood floors are available in wide ranges and all of them have their own beauty and characteristics. Each type is unique in its qualities and features and solid oak wood flooring is also one of the types of hardwood floors. Oak wood floors are considered as popular flooring options because when it comes to buy the flooring that is eye-catching as well as durable then many people go for the solid oak wood flooring. This flooring can surely make just the excellent choice as it is quite hard plus it also works well in the high traffic areas. However, let us tell you some important things that you need to know before you buy the oak wood floor.
Why to consider an engineered hardwood floor?
One may still have the striking hardwood warmth and beauty with the engineered flooring. The process of manufacturing that type of floor is that the manufacturers bond a number of layers of wood under high pressure.
The engineered flooring would offer you the warmth; appeal and charm of hardwood as it consists of several plies of wood bonded in a sequence to get the strong piece of floor.
There are lots of benefits that you can enjoy after installing the engineered oak flooring in your home. So let us discuss a few of them.
One of the main advantages for a man who buys the oak wood flooring is that it offers the consumers an affordable price and this makes it an ideal option for a person who is concerned about the price issue.
Straightforward installation is another merit of the oak wood flooring. You can find the planks in a number of sizes, which are interlocking and are very helpful in installing the floor.
When you prefer the high quality oak wood flooring that is of high quality then you may avail the benefit of solid and appealing look.
Another feature of the oak wood floor is that it offers stability and also shows resistance in different temperatures and humidity.
Besides lots of benefits the engineered solid oak wood flooring also has a few drawbacks as well. It can be easily spoiled by scratches that can harm its finishing, as such floorboards are plywood they do not have the real stability coupled with the hardiness of oak wood flooring.
Installation preparations: 1.1 Acclimatization of the panels; before starting the installation the flooring has to be brought into the room where it will be installed or in a room with the same climate condition. The acclimatisation will be carried out as following: in sealed unopened boxes for a time period of at least 7 days flat lying with at least 50 cm distance to the walls at a room temperature of at least 18°C at a floor surface temperature of a minimum of 15°C at a relative humidity between 40% and 65%
1.2 Installation direction; Solid flooring looks its best when the solid wood flooring panels are installed parallel to the light coming in through the windows. The only required installation direction is if you install solid flooring over hardwood flooring boards. In this case you have to install the solid flooring at a 90degree angle to the existing hardwood flooring boards or apply a hard board or ply board sub floor.
1.3 Planning the first row; after determining the best layout of the flooring and the starting wall, measure the width of the room and divide it by the width of the solid flooring panels to determine the number of rows and the width of the last row. If the last row is determined to be less than 60mm wide, it should be adjusted by cutting the first row lengthwise.
1.4 Planning of expansion gaps; since solid wood flooring is made of organic materials, it is subject to certain movement behaviours (shrinkage/expansion) due to changes in climate conditions. It is necessary to leave gaps of 15mm for the expansion in all parts of the structure i.e. walls, doorframes, stairs, around pipes.
1.5 Planning of transition mouldings; through the shrinkage and expansion behaviour of solid flooring you have to install transition mouldings in the following areas: at all door throughways at all passageways single room length and/or with more than 10 m (33 ft)
The Installation
Check all panels for possible damages/defects. Ensure you understand the difference between the tongue and the groove on the panel. Begin installing the first row from the left-hand corner of the room with both tongue sides of the panels pointing towards the wall. Place spacers between the flooring and the wall to provide the correct space for expansion.
1.1. Glue down â recommendation
1.1.2 Nail down â recommendation
Timber battens, ply board, particleboard sub floor constructions, any wooden surface should be kiln dried at the maximum moisture content of 12-14%. They should be placed at 400mm intervals. Heavy loads such as pianos are place in areas where this is reducing to 300mm. Lay the first row of boards 15mm from the longest, straightest wall. The boards must follow the contours of the wall. It the wall is not straight you must scribe in the first and last row. Place spacers between the edge of the flooring panels and the wall to provide the correct space for expansion. Face nail the first and last row nearest the wall 15mm into the board at 200mm intervals. Secret nail every board (including first row) with a portonailer at 45degrees through the tongue 200mm â 400mm intervals. Start all subsequent rows with the off cut piece from the previous row. Always make sure the off cut to start a new row is at least 400mm long, if not then cut another piece which is
greater than 400mm long.
Attention! Ensure all the short ends are staggered at least 400 mm. It is vital to maintain a minimum of 400mm between the ends of boards in the adjacent rows (staggered).
For great value solid Wooden Flooring and accessories, visit the Flooring Supplies website.
A solid wood floor can add warm tones and a stunning finish to any room. Constructed with pieces of solid wood they have tongue and groove sides so they can be easily connected together. Each piece has a different grain which combines to form a unique look whenever it is used. There is a huge variety of solid wood floors available with many types of wood species, colours and widths available at hardwood flooring suppliers.
The most popular option is oak wood flooring. Europe and America are both the main consumer and producer of this type of hardwood flooring. Oak is available in various types including red, white and European oak, each with their own hardness, grain and colour characteristics.
A cherry wood floor is another popular choice due to its striking grain markings and solid composition. Like other wood floors it is highly resistant to damage. Over time cherry wood flooring darkens from a pale pink colour to warm dark red tone
Exotic hardwoods can give a room a unique look are now readily available at major hardwood flooring suppliers. They can be found for sale alongside other classic real wood flooring such as maple, oak and ash. Real wood flooring can be purchased in pre-finished or unfinished styles. When laying unfinished wood flooring the product can be recoated many times to increase its life and make it last considerably longer than other flooring options.
When laying solid wood floors, begin with a flat, dry and solid sub floor such as concrete, wood or cork. Carpet is not suitable as a sub base and must be removed. Any deviations in level should be rectified with suitable floor filler. A plastic barrier to stop moisture is recommended for floors that are being installed on concrete or in damp areas. Harwood flooring should also be allowed time to acclimatise before it is set down by leaving it the room for several days. For a bathroom wood floor contact you local flooring supplier for suitable product support.
If you are using a wood floor sub base the solid wood floor should be installed at right angles to the original floorboards to aid strength and stability. An expansion area around the perimeter of the room is also recommended to allow for contractions and expansions throughout the winter and summer months. This expansion gap can be covered with skirting boards or a cover strip.
Solid wood floors are tough and hard wearing and by taking care of them their life can be prolonged. Keep gravel, dirt and grit at bay by using a doormat outside and inside the front door. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will take care of any dirt that does settle on the floor and will reduce scratches and everyday wear and tear. Avoid wearing stiletto heels on solid wood floors and if possible only wear indoor shoes or slippers on its surface.
Nothing comes close to the finish that can be achieved with a solid wood floor. By installing solid wood flooring the value of a home often increases and it can give a home the edge over similar property on the market. Solid wood floors are stain resistant and do not trap dust so are especially good for allergy sufferers. There is a wide range of tones, styles and prices on the market so whether you are looking for a cheap wood floor or the ultimate in hardwood flooring, you are sure to find the right match for your room.
Rami Nseir is a consultant for UK Carpets Direct who are specialist UK suppliers of hardwood flooring & laminate floors.
It is important to start any flooring installation by firstly planning out the room and deciding where to start. Many rooms offer what at first appear to be very complicated situations to overcome. Don’t worry too much about these, all situations have a solution which are covered in this section, alternatively further information can be found in the handy hints and tips section.
Planning:-
When first presented with a room or area which is to be fitted with Solid wood flooring some key factors will help you to decide where to start your installation. Door ways, shape of room and locations of main window are all factors to take into consideration as well as the subfloor (existing floor which is to be covered with Solid wood floor) here are some rules and suggestions:-
Rules –
When laying Solid wood flooring on top of existing floor boards always lay the planks at 90 degrees to the floor boards
It is important not to end up with a piece of flooring at the end of a row which is less than 5cm in length or to have the last row less than 5cm in width. To avoid this measure the room’s width and length and divide the results by the dimensions of the flooring being installed. It may then be necessary to start the first row with a half plank or even to cut the width down to accommodate the area
An expansion joint will need to be inserted into any floor area which is larger than 8m in length or in width, in effect creating two floor areas
Acclimatise the boards in the room they are to be laid in for a minimum of 48 hours. The room should have a relative humidity of between 45% – 65% and a temperature of between 18C – 20C
Suggestions –
It is generally accepted that the best visual effect when installing Solid wood flooring is to lay the boards in the direction of the light source; so towards the main window (not forgetting rule 1 above)
It is also suggested that the floor should run along the longest wall of the room giving the best overall effect. (again take note of rule 1 above)
When laying a floor across a door way it is best practise to start at this point and work back into the room
Installation guide:-
Once your planning stage is complete it is time to prepare the room starting with the subfloor. It is vital that the subfloor is in optimal condition to allow the new floor to perform as expected and help to maintain its longevity
Subfloor preparation –
The main factors to consider are the smoothness, dryness and overall levelness of the floor. If the subfloor is uneven then the new floor will not last long as the pressure on the joints will cause the boards to separate
For concrete floors make sure that they are dry (it takes approx. 1 day per 1mm of wet concrete to be considered dry enough for a Solid wood floor to be installed). The relative humidity of the floor is also vital it should not exceed 85%
For wooden subfloors, ensure there is no movement in the floor. Any loose floor boards should be nailed or screwed securely in place. WBP (water and boil proof) ply can be used over existing floorboards to provide a suitable subfloor surface
All floors must be smooth and level
Finally all debris must be cleaned and the surface of the subfloor must be free from dust and other contaminants
Installation Techniques:-
There are three main ways to install a Solid Wood floor,
Secret nailing
Gluing directly to the subfloor
Installing the Solid wood onto a self adhesive underlay
All of these methods are perfectly acceptable methods of installation for a domestic application, each method has its benefits and draw backs. It is often the subfloor which will help to determine which installation is best suitable.
Installing the floor planks – Secret nailing –
Secret nailing a wooden floor is a method usually chosen when the existing subfloor is wood or when installing directly to joists. Solid wood flooring should have a minimum thickness of 21mm if it is to be fitted directly to joists.
It is possible to use the secret nail technique when the subfloor is concrete or screed. A damp proof membrane (DPM) needs to be placed over the concrete followed by an 18 – 24mm WBP plywood sheet.
Start the first row by loose laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading
At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.
(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)
Once you are happy with the alignment, ‘face nail’ the boards into the subfloor at intervals of 250-300mm or onto every joist. Face nailing is nailing through the top of the planks into the subfloor, counter sink the nails and fill in the dimples with wood filler.
Depending on the tools used and the width of the flooring installed, it may be necessary to face nail two or three rows before secret nailing can begin.
Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)
Keeping the nails at a distance of 250 – 300mm, secret nail the planks into the subfloor. Secret nailing is a method where planks are secured through the tongue of the boards at a 45 degree angle and counter sunk to allow the groove of the next board to fit tightly. Mechanical nail guns are the best way to achieve professional results and make installation a lot easier.
The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.
The last few rows will also have to be face nailed as there will not be enough room for secret nailing.
Installing the floor planks – Direct gluing –
Direct gluing is a suitable method of installation when fixing on top of a concrete or screed subfloor. One benefit is that the overall height of the new floor is kep to a minimum as there is no need to install an 18mm WBP plywood base. It is also suitable over existing wood floors which are suitably flat and firm.
The subfloor must be flat, firm and level; if necessary a levelling compound may be used. It is important to remember that all subfloors must be dry.
A liquid damp proof membrane must be laid first and allowed to dry.
Using a suitable wood flooring adhesive apply an even coat to the subfloor. A notched trowel held at between 450 and 900 is the best method for this.
Start the first row by laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading
At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.
(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)
After two rows have been successfully installed weigh them down while the glue sets. Any glue which has seeped through to the surface should be removed immediately.
Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)
Tension straps may be used to hold rows tightly together whilst the glue sets.
The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.
Installing the floor planks – Self adhesive underlay –
Solid flooring can also be laid as a floating floor using a self adhesive underlay. The boards are adhered directly to the underlay which holds the floor together. This method can be used for all subfloor types (following the rules set out above that subfloors be flat, firm and dry) the benefits of the self adhesive underlay is that the room can be used immediately with no drying time required for glue to set.
Lay the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the boards ensuring that there are no gaps between sheets but equally important is that the underlay does not overlap. When using the underlay over concrete, first lay a DPM with the edges overlapped by 20cm.
Peel back the foil from the underlay by the width of 2 ½ planks and fold over.
Using the supplied spare foil, lay this over the exposed adhesive surface of the underlay with enough surplus foil facing the wall to fold back over the top of the underlay
Place the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading
Position the first row along the wall and wedges allowing for the expansion gap and ensure that this is perfectly straight. (if the first row is not perfectly straight the entire floor will be ruined) At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size
(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)
Now lay a second row, this will help to stabilise the two rows whilst the foil is removed as well as help to provide a straight line
Once you are satisfied the rows are straight and tightly fitted, peel back the loose foil sheet which will expose the adhesive underlay to the solid wood flooring thus holding the boars in place.
The loose foil may now be discarded. The remaining attached foil will be your work area where new rows will be rested on until you are happy that they are tightly fitted.
Continue to fit the rows down and peel away the foil to fix the boards into place.
The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.
Obstacles –
There are various obstacles you will come across when installing any flooring. The trick is to identify these at the beginning and plan when to tackle them. You do not want to end up at an obstacle where you may need to remove some flooring you have already installed to enable you to deal with the situation.
Door frames are inevitable as almost all rooms will have these. It is necessary to remove a section of architrave and door jam to allow the Solid to be fitted under them, thus hiding the expansion gap away from sight. To do this you will need to place a piece of underlay and an upturned board against the door frame. Using a long saw pressed against the Solid floor begin to cut into the door frame. Make your cut until you reach the wall behind the door frame. Do not worry about cutting into the skirting as the beading will cover this. Remove as much of the door frame as possible so as to allow the right expansion room for the Engineered.
Measure and mark the Solid to fit and then install. When faced with a room where there are doors on both sides of a room and the Solid is installed across the door way it may be necessary to use glue to fit a board at one of these doors. As it is impossible to install the board at 30 degrees and still slide it under the architrave you will need to remove some of the locking joint on the previous row.
Remove the lip along the tongue of the long edge using a sharp chisel. Apply glue to this edge. Slide the board to be fitted under the door architrave and then pull it back into place along the previous row.
Radiator pipe covers can either protrude through the floor or from the wall. If they are floor mounted then the Solid will need to be cut around the pipes with an expansion gap. Measure and mark the position of the pipes on the Solid board and cut the holes out using a 32mm spade drill bit. This should allow for the 15mm pipe and an expansion gap. Then remove the excess Solid to allow the board to be placed against the pipes. The area of Solid removed should represent a keyhole shape. Keep the off cuts of the Solid as these can be glued back into place once the plank is installed.
Real Wood Flooring FAQs brought to you by the flooring experts at Wood Flooring 2U
If you would like any further information on solid wood flooring, engineered wood flooring, laminate wood flooring or advice on how to install a wooden floor, please don’t hesitate to get in touch, our knowledgeable team would be more than happy to help.
This short video shows how to install solid wood flooring onto a concrete base using Rewmar MS Polymer flexible adhesive. This adhesive is so easy to use and contains no solvents. Perfect for sticking down both solid hardwood flooring and engineered hardwood flooring. For more information please vist the website www.rewmar.co.uk This product can be bought online from: www.wood2u.co.uk Video Rating: 3 / 5
Why Choose Engineered Hardwood Flooring in Vancouver Over Natural Solid Hardwood?
When selecting the kind of material used to cover your floor, the choice of hardwood is always at the top of the list. Natural wood elicits an instant feeling of warmth and hominess to the environment that vinyl, stone or carpet just aren’t able to match. Solid hardwood floors in Vancouver are a special favorite of homeowners as a statement of style that compliments the Canadian mystique of the North Country. But when deciding whether to go with all natural or engineered hardwood flooring it’s important to consider more than which material is the greatest status symbol.
Solid hardwood flooring in Vancouver has always been the prime choice of the regions most expensive homes and offices because of its rich texture and unique grain patterns. But all natural wood floors have many down sides that can out weigh the benefits. On the other side of the debate, there are many advantages to choosing engineered hardwood flooring in Vancouver over solid hardwood and not all of them centers on price alone.
Because of the climate, engineered hardwood flooring in Vancouver is gaining in popularity for its diversity of real wood top layers along with its ability to be used in rooms where solid hardwood floors would not stand a chance.
And there are other reasons:
Upkeep – For most people the number one concern for flooring isn’t the price of purchase but more about the cost of its maintenance. The cost of preserving a solid hardwood floor over engineered hardwood flooring equates to a combination of time, labor and money.
Solid hardwood flooring in Vancouver needs special care to keep their luster and appearance. Natural wood scratches, fades with age and is prone to warping and even mold should it be exposed to water and moisture for extended periods. After a few years, when the natural wood has weathered a bit, it will be necessary to have the floors resurfaced. This usually involves sanding the wood surface and then re-staining. Unfortunately natural solid wood floors, because of environmental regulations, can’t be layered with a coat of polyurethane which could protect it from scratches.
Engineered hardwood flooring in Vancouver is pre-coated which makes it more resistant to scratches and provides for greater longevity. Because engineered hardwood flooring is still made with real natural wood, it can be resurfaced if it becomes deeply scratched and its’ construction allows it to be used in more highly trafficked areas that may be susceptible to moisture and heat like the kitchen or bathroom. Unlike natural hardwood, engineered hardwood flooring would warp or cup when exposed to these elements. This type of flooring is constructed so that their inner core is laid in opposite directions making it immune to atmospheric assaults that would normally cause it to enlarge or shrink creating all kinds of problems. Installation – Engineered hardwood flooring in Vancouver is easy to install compared to solid hardwood flooring even to the point that it can be laid down by amateurs making it a less complicated “do it yourself” job. Unlike solid hardwood flooring, engineered hardwood flooring can be nailed, stapled, glued or can be installed as a floating floor. Because of the ease of installation and replacement, should you need to move from your home or office, it’s fairly simple to remove the floor and take it with you. Cost – For Canadian residents and business owners considering engineered hardwood flooring in Vancouver, all the benefits of its visual appeal, simplicity of installation and ease of maintenance, can be topped off with the fact that engineered hardwood flooring costs less than solid hardwood floors in Vancouver. That is to say, not only is your cost in the long run going to be less but the price of an engineered hardwood floor is much lower than that of the solid wood floors; right out of the gate.
Engineered hardwood flooring in Vancouver shows itself to be the perfect choice. You have a wide variety of wood styles and types to choose from, it can be used in higher traffic areas that are prone to moisture and heat where solid hardwood floors can’t be used, and it’s far easier to install than traditional solid wood floors. After calculating the low maintenance costs, that fact that this is a floor you “can take with you” and the much cheaper price tag; the bottom line when considering all the various factors for selecting the right floor for your home or office is that an engineered hardwood floor definitely comes out on top.
Experience a new classy touch and elegant looks with the solid wood flooring. The solid wood flooring really adds aesthetics and elegance to a room. Let the attractive Solid Wood Floors bring beauty to the every corner of home. Solid Wood floorings are costly but it increases the ambience of the house, making it worthwhile. They bring warmth, comfort and liveliness to every room, and are lasting for long periods of time. You can buy solid Wood Flooring from any Wood Flooring company in UK.
Wood Flooring Company in UK offers Solid Wood flooring in different appearances and a lot of choices to meet your flooring needs. Wood Flooring Company in UK offers a fantastic range of top quality Solid Wood Flooring across a varied price range. You can also buy Solid Wood Flooring online. Solid Wood flooring companies in UK makes it easier for you to purchase Solid Wood Floors. Solid Wood Floors are wonderful flooring option for the bedrooms and the living rooms.
Go for the Solid Wood Flooring and experience a whole new look of class and sophistication at an affordable price. You will love walking bare feet on the Solid Wood Floors. Solid Wood Floor ensures warmth and everlasting natural beauty. Another benefit of Solid Wood flooring is that they make room more spacious.
Solid Wood Floor gives a brilliant chance for customization. You can find Solid wood floorings at almost all places. Once you install a Solid Wood Flooring, you will automatically feel the supreme beauty. These days parquet, plank boards and strip flooring are popular choices in Solid Wood Flooring category. Solid Wood Floors are best and at the same time simple to maintain. Whether you choose dark coloured or light shade, the Solid Wood Flooring lasts forever. Solid Wood Floor promises a real investment into your home. Select from wide range of the superior quality Solid Wood Flooring for your home from Wood flooring companies in UK.
We offer a range of wood flooring, bamboo flooring, engineered flooring, flooring installation services at Forest Floors UK at best affordable prices. For more information on wood flooring Products and accessories visit us at www.forestfloorsuk.co.uk.
Miles is a well-known author who writes on topics related to Solid Wood flooring, Laminate wood Flooring, Engineered Wood Flooring, information on Wood Flooring Company for the site www.forestfloorsuk.co.uk
